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How you clean wallpaper depends on the material. Vinyl wipes down with soapy water, non-woven only takes a damp cloth, textile prefers dry cleaning. Step-by-step guide and a stain chart inside.

The right way to clean wallpaper comes down to what it's made of. Vinyl surfaces are the easiest: wipe them with a microfibre cloth dampened in pH-neutral soapy water and wrung out well.
Non-woven (fibre-based) papers don't like water; clean them with a lightly damp cloth only, without pressing. On a textile backing, dry cleaning comes first: a vacuum with a soft brush head or a dry microfibre cloth. Below you'll find a step-by-step method for each material and fixes for 12 common stains.
The mistake we see most often in our production workshop is people doing a "one-size-fits-all" clean without knowing what their paper is made of. With the wrong product, a single wipe can leave a permanent mark. Identify your paper first:
| Material | Routine care | Wet cleaning | Never use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl | Dry dust, then a damp microfibre cloth | pH-neutral soapy water (1 tsp per litre); washable, even scrubbable | Bleach, ammonia, abrasive powder |
| Non-woven | Dry or lightly damp cloth | Damp cloth only; heavily diluted pH-neutral if needed | Soaking, dripping water, steam |
| Textile | Soft-brush vacuum, dry cloth | Local stain only, minimal moisture, dab do not rub | Steam, soaking, hard brushes |
| Self-adhesive film | Damp cloth | Damp cloth with a few drops of detergent | Water pooling at the edges |
If you're not sure which type you have, check our vinyl vs non-woven comparison guide or look at the product detail in your order email.
Before any wet cleaning, lift the surface dust with a dry microfibre cloth or a soft-brush vacuum. Pressing a wet cloth onto dust turns it into mud and pushes it into the paper's texture.
Try your mixture first on a 10×10 cm patch behind furniture. Wait 10 minutes; if there's no colour bleed, dulling or bubbling, carry on.
One teaspoon of pH-neutral dish soap per litre of warm water is plenty. Bleach, ammonia, acetone and abrasive powders are banned on every type of paper — they lighten colour and wreck the texture.
Wring the cloth out well; it should be damp enough not to drip. Work from the ceiling down to the skirting in broad, straight strokes. Wiping upward runs dirty water onto clean areas and leaves streaks.
Dampen a second cloth with clean water only and lift off any detergent residue. Leftover residue yellows the surface over time and attracts dust.
Pat lightly dry with a dry microfibre cloth. If water has seeped into the seams, you can use a hair dryer on low heat from 20–30 cm away.
The golden rule for every stain is the same: act before it dries. A dried stain works into the fibre and usually becomes permanent.
Sprinkle cornstarch or baby powder on the fresh stain, wait 15 minutes and lift it with a soft brush. Wipe any remaining mark with a damp soapy cloth. For walls near the kitchen, our kitchen and bathroom guide has stain-resistant paper recommendations.
Rub gently with a white eraser without crushing the texture. If that fails on vinyl, try a baking-soda paste (baking soda + a few drops of water).
On vinyl, drip 70% isopropyl alcohol onto a cotton swab and dab the stain only, without rubbing. On non-woven and textile, alcohol can lighten the colour — test first, and call a professional if possible.
Blot it up immediately with a dry cloth (don't rub). Then wipe the whole stain — not just the dark spot — with soapy water, or you'll be left with a ring mark.
Wipe the spot with a mix of 1 part white vinegar to 3 parts water, then air the room and dry it completely. If mould keeps coming back, the problem isn't the paper, it's the wall: no clean will last until you fix the source (a leak, poor insulation).
On vinyl, a two-stage wipe — soapy water, then vinegar water — reduces yellowing. On textile the soot particles work into the fibre, so professional dry cleaning is needed; if that gets nowhere, weigh up the cost of replacing it.
Most DEKOARTİZAN products are premium textile-backed, which is why this section matters. On a textile surface, weekly care means vacuuming on low suction with a soft-brush head. For a local stain, dampen a white, lint-free cloth minimally and dab without pressing. Any clean that soaks the fabric risks rippling at the seams.

The general rule: with textile, "less intervention is the best intervention." One general dry clean a year keeps it fresh across its 10–15 year lifespan.
If you've moved into an old house or can't find the invoice records, these tests will tell you the type:
Drip a single drop of water onto an inconspicuous corner. If the drop beads on the surface, it's a vinyl/washable surface; if it soaks in within 5–10 seconds, it's non-woven or textile and wet cleaning is risky.
Run a fingertip over it: a plastic feel and slight sheen point to vinyl, a fabric/linen feel to textile, and a matte paper-felt texture to non-woven.
Lift the paper gently with a fingernail at an invisible spot above the skirting. A film layer that stretches and gives = vinyl; a structure that separates fibre by fibre = a paper backing. This test also tells you the right stripping method.
Steam and grease aerosol are the most punishing pair. Wipe the paper behind the worktop and around the hob once a month with soapy water; using the extractor hood properly adds 2–3 years to the paper's life. In this zone we recommend nothing but washable film.
The problem isn't water splashes, it's condensation. Ten minutes of ventilation after a shower brings the mould risk close to zero. Wipe around the mirror and basin weekly with a dry cloth; once a month do a preventive wipe with vinegar water (1:3).
The way to handle the trio of crayon, stuck-on stickers and fingerprints is choosing the right type: on a washable surface, all of these come off without a trace. When removing stickers, don't pull them off dry; warm them with a hair dryer for 10 seconds.
The lowest-risk areas; weekly dusting is enough. The real enemy is the sun: on a wall in direct light all day, noticeable fading starts within 3–4 years. Sheers or blinds and a UV-filter window film slow fading considerably.
Don't tackle these three situations yourself: (1) large-area soot/smoke damage — after a fire or heavy smoking; (2) old, spread-out stains on textile paper; (3) any risky stain on a valuable custom-design application. Most upholstery-cleaning firms also service textile wallpaper; before the job, always ask about their "wallpaper experience" and request a test on a small area. Typical professional care costs 80–150 TL/m² (2026) — low next to the cost of replacement.
Vinyl can; non-woven and textile should only be cleaned with a "damp" (non-dripping) cloth. A wet cloth causes bubbling on non-woven and a stain ring on textile.
pH-neutral dish soap is safe at a ratio of 1 teaspoon to 1 litre of water. Bleach, surface-cleaner sprays and ammonia-based products should not be used.
The "washable" class is largely vinyl-surfaced papers. On DEKOARTİZAN product pages, each paper's washability level is listed in the material information; you can filter for it while browsing the categories.
For yellowing caused by smoke and kitchen steam, a two-stage wipe on vinyl (soapy water + vinegar water) gets results. Sun-related fading is physical, not chemical; it can't be reversed, but a UV-filter window film stops it progressing.
Washable vinyl surfaces are ideal for a children's room; crayon and fingerprints come off in a single wipe. In our children's room guide we list options that are both safe and easy to clean.
The big advantage of custom-size production is this: you can reprint one wall's design at the exact same size. Get in touch — we'll find the pattern and dimensions of your old order in our records and produce just the damaged section.
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