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The secret to stripping wallpaper is the right solution: 1 part white vinegar to 2 parts hot water. A step-by-step, damage-free method plus tips by wallpaper type.

The trick to learning how to remove wallpaper without damage is patience and moisture. Perforate the surface, apply a warm removal solution, leave it for 15-20 minutes, then peel from top to bottom with a wide scraper.
The best homemade solution: 1 part white vinegar to 2 parts hot water, or 2 tablespoons of washing-up liquid in 1 litre of hot water. Non-woven papers, on the other hand, usually come off dry and in one piece. Below you'll find the technique type by type, plus how to leave the wall ready to paint.

The most common mistake we see on site is forcing a dry scraper across dry paper — it tears the plaster off and lands you a filler bill. The job of the solution is to reactivate the paste so the paper lets go on its own.
Enzyme strippers from DIY stores (gel or concentrate) run around 150-400 TL as of 2026. They save time on multi-layered old paper (2-3 coats stacked up) and large areas; on a single layer of current paper the homemade recipe does the same job.
The hotter the solution, the faster it works (warm enough not to scald your hand). Spraying it on with a garden sprayer is 3 times faster than wiping with a sponge. Wet 1-1.5 m² sections at a time rather than the whole wall at once, so the rest doesn't dry out while you strip.
Lay a plastic sheet along the skirting boards, switch the sockets off at the fuse box and remove the socket and switch plates. What you'll need: a wide scraper (10 cm+), a perforation tool or utility knife, a sprayer, a ladder and a bin bag.
Try a dry peel from a bottom corner. If the backing fibres come away with the paper layer, you're in luck: it's non-woven backed and will most likely come off without any solution.
The waterproof surface of vinyl and washable papers won't let the solution through. Run a perforation roller (the "hedgehog" tool) over the surface to make micro-holes. No tool? Sparse diagonal scores with a utility knife also work — without pressing, just deep enough to nick the paper layer.
Wet the area and leave it for 15-20 minutes. Spray a second coat where it dries out. The right consistency: the paper turns matt and slides slightly when you press it with a finger.
Start from a seam and run the scraper at a 30-degree angle; a steep angle gouges the plaster. Work top to bottom in the largest pieces you can. Add more solution to any stubborn patch — never scrape dry.
Once the wall dries, run your hand over it: rough, shiny spots are paste residue. Wipe them off with hot soapy water. Any paint or new paper applied over residue is guaranteed to bubble.
| Wallpaper type | Method | Typical time (10 m²) |
|---|---|---|
| Non-woven | Peel dry, top to bottom | 20-30 min |
| Vinyl | Peel the film, wet the backing, scrape | 1.5-2 hours |
| Self-adhesive film | Heat with a hairdryer, pull at 45° | Quick, no soaking |
| Multi-layer old paper | Work layer by layer, steam stripper | 3-4 hours |
The easiest type: on most products, grab a corner and pull at a steady speed and it comes away dry and in one piece. Any marks left behind wipe off with a lightly damp sponge. DEKOARTİZAN's textile products are built on this backing — if you're a tenant who wants to leave the wall as you found it when moving, see our guide for renters.
It's two layers: first the top vinyl film peels off dry (usually comes away easily), then the paper backing left underneath is wetted with solution and lifted with a scraper. Perforation is only needed if the film won't peel.
Lift a corner and pull while heating it with a hairdryer; the heat softens the adhesive. A slow, steady pull at a 45-degree angle leaves no marks. Any adhesive residue wipes off with isopropyl alcohol.
Older homes can have 2-3 layers of paper built up. You have to work layer by layer; this is the one scenario where a steam stripper earns its keep.
A steamer (hire ~250-500 TL per day) loosens the paste deep down. It speeds things up on 30+ m² areas, multi-layered old paper or delicate non-concrete surfaces. Caution: on plasterboard, don't hold the steam on one spot for more than 10 seconds — it blisters the card.
The card face of plasterboard isn't water-resistant; apply the solution at a "dampening" dose with the sprayer, don't soak it. Keep the wait time to 10 minutes and work section by section. Run the scraper at an angle against the paper, not the card; if the card peels, paint won't hold without filler. Old paper stuck straight onto unprimed plasterboard is the toughest scenario — here, go steam-free, patient and in small pieces.
Good news: paper separates far more easily from a painted surface (especially silicone or oil-based paint) because the paste can't penetrate paint the way it does plaster. Start with the corner test; often half the solution will do.
On a skim coat where primer was skipped, the paste may have bonded with the plaster. Don't force it: plenty of solution, a long wait (25-30 min) and a second round if needed. If plaster comes away in places, accept it — a thin filler coat was going to be needed anyway. This very situation is also the answer to why primer is essential on a new application.
If you hire a pro, removal is usually priced at 80-150 TL/m² + 100-200 TL/m² for filler-and-sand prep; for a 10 m² wall, a total in the 1,800-3,500 TL band is normal. Do it yourself and the material cost (vinegar, scraper, sprayer, sheeting) won't top 300-500 TL. On a single layer of current paper, DIY is a clear win; on a multi-layer-old-paper-plus-plasterboard combo, the pro earns their fee.
Mix 1 part white vinegar with 2 parts hot water, apply with a sprayer and wait 15-20 minutes. Alternatively: 2 tablespoons of washing-up liquid in 1 litre of hot water.
Yes — follow the right order (perforation → solution → wait → angled scraper) and the plaster won't be harmed. Damage almost always comes from dry, hasty scraping.
Not if you heat it and pull slowly at a 45-degree angle. Any remaining adhesive spots clean off with isopropyl alcohol.
A single-layer 10 m² wall: non-woven 20-30 minutes, vinyl 1.5-2 hours, multi-layered old paper 3-4 hours. Wait times included.
Not recommended. The old layer can absorb moisture and bubble, lifting the new paper too; seam lines show through to the surface. One or two hours of stripping means years of a smooth wall.
At DEKOARTİZAN, yes: every order is on file, and we can reproduce the same design at the same size. It's the service our customers use most after moving house.
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